Central Lakes Getaway Part 2: Plodding the Dodds

 Tuesday 5th June 2018

Staying on a farm meant as soon as the sun rose, the farmyard came to life - in particular the Cockerel which woke me up with its crowing at just after 4:30 in the morning. I managed to half-doze off again though for a couple of hours until my 7:30 alarm went off.

I got ready & made my way downstairs to the guest dining room. The farm-house was very homely, and felt more like staying at a friends house than a bed & breakfast. The dining room kept this vibe, with ornaments & trinkets on the sideboards - with a distinct farming theme. It had one large table in the middle, and there was a couple sat down starting their breakfast. I joined them & we chatted about our adventures in the Lake District while their pet dog sniffed around.

The owner popped her head in the door to say Good Morning, and took our cooked breakfast orders - Full English for me, please! When the breakfast came, I wasn't sure I'd be able to finish it all! A mountain of scrambled eggs, a pork sausage, two thick slices of bacon, mushrooms - the works... and we were all plied with toast, juice & tea or coffee.

I finished my breakfast, quickly headed back to my room to ready my hiking pack & set off straight out the door....time to walk off that mighty breakfast!

At the end of the drive, I turned right and followed the A591 to the immediate turn off towards St Johns in the Vale, and again turned immediate right again following Stanah Lane for a couple of hundred feet before reaching a weathered sign for Sticks Pass which was pointing to a step stile over a dry stone wall.

The path entered some woodland which skirted the lowest slopes, winding its way through the trees the path found its way to a small alcove of rocks which was home to a lovely little waterfall - part of Stanah Gill, making its way off the fells towards Thirlmere reservoir. It was a lovely little scene, and worth a few minutes to try and get a good shot.

The path carried on, out of the woodland to clearer ground. I was now at the upper reaches of Stybeck farm's stone walls, and from here I could see Sticks Pass snaking its way steeply up the right flanks of Stanah Gill.

It was only about 10:30 in the morning, but the skies were clear & the sun was beating down - a vast change from the days before. I stopped to take regular sips of water & catch my breath as the climb continued. Eventually I reached a ruined sheepfold and from there onward the path climbed, but nowhere near as steeply, across the lower flanks of Stybarrow Dodd in the direction of Sticks Gill & to the col between Stybarrow Dodd & Raise.

On reaching the 'crossroads' of Sticks Pass, marked by a cairn, the path splits off in four directions - back down to Thirlmere (the way I came), straight over & down to Glenridding. South towards Raise, or north - the way I would be going - upto Stybarrow Dodd & the rest of the ridge north.

I was once again on familar territory, as I had climbed both Stybarrow Dodd & Raise back in January in winter conditions. The ski slope on neighbouring Raise was busier back then - now there were only sheep on its slopes (not skiing though).

The wide path steadily climbed to the top of Stybarrow Dodd - as with all the paths along the top of the Helvellyn masif, they were wide, well trodden & not particularly arduous. (Or maybe I was just getting attuned to them).

I was at the top of Stybarrow Dodd in next to no time - a few sheep & their lambs were milling about, a mixture of Herdwicks & Swaledales. It was more comfortable up here today than in January when icy winds blasted the felltop, freezing the snow covered tuffs of grass into strange wave-like objects. Today, the lambs were taking shelter from the sun next to their mothers.

I passed over the summit, following the path down the slope to the north, where it swings west to my first new Wainwright of the day - Watson's Dodd. At around two thirds of a mile from Stybarrow, this wasn't a particularly prominent peak. In fact theres very little ascent required to get to the top - turning off the main path onto a narrow track, & passing over a marshy area, which was thankfully dry, up to the cairn topped grassy knoll. I took a break - had a drink & a snack & relaxed in the sunshine, looking west over Thirlmere to the Central fells & beyond. (#122 - Watson's Dodd - 2,589 ft)

After a fifteen minute break, I hauled my pack on my back, and headed north east. The hulk of Great Dodd in front of me. About three quarters of a mile away, and 250 foot of ascent. I stuck to the path as it climbed the grassy slopes. A handful of people were on the fells now, enjoying the sunshine, when I was passed by a couple of mountain bikers heading down the hill.

The ground flattened out as I reached the barren summit plateau & I made my way to a stone structure - this was actually a wind shelter on the south top of the fell, and as I approached, I spotted another cairn, on slightly higher ground just to the north so made my way over to reach the summit. (#123 - Great Dodd - 2,812 ft). At this higher altitude, the wind had picked up - and although it helped cool me down, it was to the point where I was feeling a bit cold. It was approaching lunch time, so I made my way west off the summit & down to the subsidiary point of Little Dodd - with a similar westward view to that from Watson's Dodd, it was a great place to stop for a bite to eat.

After lunch, rucksack back on my back, I set off across the expansive col spanning two miles between Great Dodd heading towards Clough Head. Around the middle of the col was a craggy outcrop called Calfhow Pike, which was worth a detour as it was the only real feature in the otherwise monotonous grassy col....or so I thought.

On the other side of Calfhow Pike, on the lowest part of the col were swaithes of Cottongrass all in bloom, covering a huge area. Bluebells or daffodils might be the popular choice when people think of a carpet of wild-flowers, but Cottongrass is a worthy competitor. It turned an otherwise 'dull trudge' (Wainwright's words) into a fantastical walk.

From there, it was a slow but steady climb up the grassy path for 300 feet or so to the top of Clough Head - the northernmost fell at the head of the Helvellyn range. The the north, Clough Head's slopes dropped away dramatically into the Keswick - Penrith valley.

The path topped out, and followed the top to the fell to reach the trig point marking the summit. (#124 - Clough Head - 2381 ft). Blencathra dominated the views north. To get back down, I would need to find a westerly route to descend. I consulted my Wainwright book and found a route which would first head south-west down the higher slopes to a ruined sheep-fold known as Jim's Fold. The path to here was very faint, & almost disappeared in points, soI had to keep checking my map that I was heading in the right direction. I found the fold, then picked up another faint path north, heading towards the crags, where I was to pick up a traverse down the crags.

The narrow track continued on straight towards the crags to the point where I though I was going the wrong way & had picked up a sheep trod, but no, looking ahead I could see the path weaving its way down the crags, making its way over a scree slope & eventually turning to flatter ground beyond & a more substantial path awaited - where I spotted a fell runner heading down.

It was a bit hairy at times as the narrow path hugged the crags, but I confidently made progress watching my step as I went.

I was thankful to reach the main path at the bottom though, and picked up the pace as the path headed down to Wanthwaite - the site of a ruined quarry & now farm. I wouldn't be heading into Wanthwaite though my path turned south at a stone wall, and followed the wall along the edge of its boundary with the fell.

The path ended a mile or so later in a field. I had to scale a fence to get out onto the minor road from Lowthwaite Farm where the road passed through woodland & yet another disused quarry., where it reached a junction with the main St Johns in the Vale road.

I could have followed that road all the way back to Stybeck Farm, and did follow the road for about a mile until reaching Sosgill Bridge - this old stone packhorse bridge crossed St Johns Beck where a path followed the beck south, through fields, it's accompanying farm, then into woodland before ending at the A591 where it was then a quick 10 minute walk back to the farm, and a refreshing shower.

That evening I headed back to the Kings Head Inn just down the road at Thirlspot, for another lovely meal. After dinner, I checked what time sunset would be, and decided to head a couple of miles up the road to just outside Keswick, and the Castlerigg road. After passing the Castlerigg Caravan site, the road continued for a short while, before reaching a layby at the end of the road.

From here, I changed into my walking boots, and picked up the path to Walla Crag. It took about 20 minutes from the car to a spectacular viewpoint surrounded by woodland, heather & gorse, overlooking Keswick & over to Bassenthwaite Lake & the sunset in the distance. I spotted a couple of other photographers at various points along the crag, their tripods set up ready. I set up my own tripod and waited for the light show to begin.

After watching a stunning sunset over the Whinlatter Fells,and taking plenty of photos, I headed back along the path to my car. Darkness was falling as I drove back to the farm where I spent another late evening sat in the bay window of my room, listening to some music & enjoying a cold beer from the fridge.

Mark